Weave is about crossing threads. Criss-cross like this is the case of plain weave.
To draw patterns or motives, we will, for instance, regularly skip some crossings.
In the past, the looms were basic, in wood. The invention of pedals to move the threads up and down – in order to generate patterns- was made by Chinese at middle-age. Knowing that the use of silk in China for garments started cc. 3500 years BC.
The Dobby weave is the modern equivalent to the loom with pedals. It was developed in the middle of the 19th century. It enables to create reliefs, motives, and to give texture to fabric, so that it’s less smooth, less uniform. It can be used in creative ways, for instance by using threads of different colors; or by mixing thiner and thicker threads, or even and uneven threads. As an examples, it can be used on shirts and blouses to give relief to stripes. The pique – refering to the reliefs like square or rhombus, like honeycom or waffle, are kinds of Dobby, used on polos so that they feel lighter on skin and stick less to skin when wheather is hot and humid.
Personnally, I love Dobby when it textures a waves pattern … and when it makes cotton look like raw linen.